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If Dani are Irian's most famous group, the Asmat of the South Coast of the island's most motorious. Historically, Asmat Culture was centered around a cycle of head hunting. Fresh enemy heads were necessary to bring about the periodic spiritual rejuvenation of the village. As long ago as 1770, Captain Cook's landing party was sent packing from their territory with valley of arrows and frightening bursts of lime, but the Asmat's most famous victim may have been Michael Rockefeller, who disappeared after his boat capsized of Irian Jaya Southern shore in 1961. He could just as well have met a more prosaic death by drowning, however, or been devoured by a saltwater crocodile. Today, the mention of cannibalism-or ritual warfare in the highland-yields embarrassed smiles and shrugs, and it has of course been banned by the government. But there are still pockets of this great island where mention and government haven't yet reached, and no one can say what cultural practice exist here. Modernization and tourist infrastructure, have come to Irian Jaya, in much more limited way than in western Indonesia. Wamena in the heart of Baliem Valley, is an hour-long, daily flight from Jayapura, Irian's bustling and the South Coast, require quite a bit more patience and organization.

The reward of a visit to Irian are manifold: snorkeling in clear, coral-field water off Biak; smoking a clove cigarette and cracking pandanus nuts in a warm hut in the highlands; or laying back in a canoe, a livid sunset lighting up the sky, the only sounds the rhythmic strokes of the paddles and the sweet, mournful singing of the Asmat.